This is the cost of the pashmina shawl included in Anant-Radhika’s wedding invitation

This thoughtful inclusion goes beyond luxury, representing cultural heritage, artisanal craftsmanship, and socio-economic significance. Ghulam Muhammed Beigh of the Beigh Family, Gazi Doori Alamgari Bazar, Srinagar, Kashmir, shared with indianexpress.com what makes a dorukha pashmina shawl so special, the intricate process behind its creation, and why its presence in this high-profile wedding invitation speaks volumes about tradition, artistry, and the preservation of India’s textile legacy.

In a grand gesture befitting their status, the Ambani family has chosen to gift their wedding guests with dorukha pashmina shawls, showcasing not only the family’s opulence but also a centuries-old tradition of Kashmiri craftsmanship.

What makes the dorukha pashmina shawl unique?

The dorukha pashmina shawl stands out as a pinnacle of luxury and artistry in the world of textiles. Beigh explained, “Dorukha shawls are known for their delicate embroidery, with up to 500 stitches per square centimeter. The intricacy of each stitch is such that the design appears identical on both sides.”

This level of craftsmanship requires not just skill, but an extraordinary amount of patience and time. Beigh said, “For a masterpiece dorukha jamawar shawl, it takes more than 2.5 years.” This lengthy handcrafting process contributes to the shawl’s exclusivity and value. The cost of such shawls depends on the category of work that is done, light weave can cost Rs 10-12,000, while heavy weaving is slightly more expensive.

How pashmina shawls, particularly the dorukha type, are handcrafted by artisans in Kashmir

Historically, the dorukha technique was even more intricate. “In the past, dorukha shawls were also made using the kani technique, which has practically vanished today. This lost art involved a unique interlocking weave; the threads were trimmed at the back, and only the outlines of the pattern details were embroidered,” Beigh said.

The choice of material is crucial in creating these exquisite shawls. While modern versions may use silk or cotton threads for embroidery, the most prized dorukha shawls are made entirely from pashmina. “In the past, most dorukha shawls were crafted entirely from pashmina. This included both the base fabric and the embroidery thread. This use of pashmina throughout the shawl made dorukha truly unique compared to other shawls,” explained Beigh.

The choice of material is crucial in creating these exquisite shawls. (Source: Freepik)

How pashmina wool used in these shawls is different from other types

Pashmina, derived from the undercoat of Changthangi goats, native to the high altitudes of Ladakh, is renowned for its softness and warmth. Beigh emphasised the superiority of pashmina over regular wool. “Dorukha shawls can also be made from wool, but wool isn’t as popular as pashmina because it’s less soft.” This softness, combined with the durability needed for intricate embroidery, makes pashmina the ideal material for dorukha shawls.

The creation of a dorukha pashmina shawl showcases human skill and dedication. The craftsman must be “fully experienced; he should know where, when, and how many stitches it would take to make a flower or pattern in front of him,” Beigh said.

The dorukha pashmina shawl stands as a reminder of the value of handcrafted artistry. These shawls represent centuries of Kashmiri craftsmanship, serving as a bridge between tradition and modernity.

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